A producer becomes a house of hospitality at the moment it decides that being visited is part of what it does. Ruinart received guests in its chalk cellars before the Ritz existed; Androuët turned a cheese cellar into a room customers sit down in.
Admission requires one of three routes. The house built premises to receive in; the house authored a model others reproduced; or the house’s name became a house of hospitality — the last being the reverse of the usual direction, since this Library is otherwise full of hotels that opened restaurants.
The test does real work. Krug is excluded: its authorship is beyond argument, but it is not bookable by the public at all. A test that admits everything famous is not a test.