1 · ⚑ The technique is the entry
Coppola’s own account credits him with cutting hair dry, natural styling, and a new relationship between the shape of the head and volume — and a separate source dates the first layered cut to 1961, in an era of square bobs. Whether or not the priority claims hold, the register keeps them because this Part exists to record where a method came from, and a salon that changed how the cut is made is a different object from a salon that is fashionable. Compare LHL-S-268 Dessange’s coiffé-décoiffé and balayage, and LHL-S-269 Rossano Ferretti’s Invisible Cut: three houses in this group and each is admitted for a technique, not a clientele.
2 · How he got in
In 1961 the designer Biki — Elvira Leonardi Boyeure — called him to do the hair for her show at Palazzo Pitti in Florence, and one account says the international audience’s attention moved from the dresses to the hair. Before he was twenty he left his father’s salon, married, and opened his own on Via Manzoni. He then worked with Armani, Versace, Ferré, Moschino and Valentino, and with Helmut Newton, Horst P. Horst, Norman Parkinson, Giovanni Gastel and Oliviero Toscani, who was a close friend.
3 · ⚑ The house gives its own founding two ways
1965 in five accounts including its own About us, and 1966 on its own home page. The Library carries both and does not choose between a company’s two statements about itself. One account adds that the first salon was opened in partnership with his brother, which the others omit.
4 · What the son built
In 1986 Aldo Coppola Jr set a new corporate philosophy: directly owned salons in chosen urban positions, a franchising formula, the first Italian freelance agency for hair and make-up serving shows, campaigns, magazines and television, an Academy, and a product line. Later came Go Coppola and Shatush. The father invented a technique and the son built a company on it — which is the sequence at Dessange, franchised from 1966, and the one this group keeps finding.
5 · Candour
⚑ Most of this rests on the company’s own pages and on obituaries, and the priority claims — the dry cut, the first layered cut — are its account of itself and are recorded as such. Aldo Coppola died in Milan in 2013 at 73. ⚑ Not established here: the ownership of the company today, the number of salons, and whether the freelance agency still operates. Aldo Coppola is not in Part IX and on the register’s own test he belongs there, as Jacques Dessange and Rossano Ferretti already do.